Out east and under...

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Writing thru' the bewildering haze of jetlag, feeling the air cool as a storm rolls in and watching a Kookaburra catching and dispatching a lizard...

Yes, dear reader, we are on the road again. This time in Australia again, but after a few days in Hong Kong.

It was a rather manic run up to departure, preparing our flat for house-sitters, stuffing general clutter into any available hiding place. Hopefully, there won't be an ugly incident. I have visions of disorientated house-guest opening the wrong cupboard, and expiring under a tsunami of poorly concealed toys and paperwork.

Hong Kong, by contrast was remarkably stress free. Everyone was very helpful, and while it helped tremendously to have friends give us the tour (thank you F and G), I never felt overwhelmed, despite the manic nature of the place.

Taxi drivers were always helpful, even when they spoke no english, and while it wasn't the most inaccessible destination we have visited, it certainly wasn't impossible. The ferries, for example, offered ramped access, even if the ramps were on the steep side at times (as there is a rainy season, the ramps also have rails fixed to them to offer extra grip, which means anyone in a wheelchair risks losing their fillings or a detached retina on the way to the ferry).

The most striking impression of Hong Kong was of relentless change, with new buildings springing up everywhere, and old ones looking uncared for. There is a visual tide-line in many streets, with the chaos of consumerism replaced above twenty feet by a clutter of windows, rusty air conditioning units, washing lines, and even home made bamboo and tarpaulin 'extensions'.  And all of this can also be seen on many of the residential tower blocks, even on the twentieth floor, where it is also still almost possible to knock on the window of the block opposite.

The population density remains very high, due in a large part to forty percent of Hong Kong consisting of National Park, and the 'bird cages' (as the residential tower blocks are known locally) offer a glimpse into a lifestyle I would find extremely claustrophobic. When such town planning is partnered with the very strong Cantonese work ethic and wrapped around one of the busiest working ports in the world, it creates an atmosphere that is exhilarating but exhausting.

As you may have gathered, two nights was enough for me, but I'd certainly go back. I was also glad not to be there when it's 38 degrees and 90% humidity.

Now in Australia again, for our first Christmas down here for 12 years. I would be lying if I said that I wasn't enjoying the sunshine and the heat, but I still find it disconcerting to see all the trappings of a Dickensian-style winter Christmas (Gawd Bless us, one and all!) on display in shop windows while people stroll past in board shorts and sandals.

There is a palpable sense of excitement in the air, which is difficult to grasp as a Northern Hemispherian. The best way to explain it is by way of a flash-back to childhood. Remember the feeling: There's but a few short weeks to go before school breaks up and the summer holidays begin. Summer Holidays! All that fun stretches out in front of you, almost within your grasp... Remember? Good. Now stick Christmas in the middle of it.

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1 Comments

You have a problem with us cooking turkeys in 40 degrees in our thongs? :)


I read somewhere that post-christmas is peak business time for folk who restore antique crockery. I wonder if it's the same in England where family members are not quite so hot under the collar?

If you make it to Melbourne make sure you take Rosalie to the Christmas Lights in The Boulevard in Ivanhoe. If you do go, get info beforehand - the traffic is horrendous.


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